Miletus and Didyma - ancient ruins

We set off early towards the west coast of Turkey, and made our first stop at a local market in the town of Nazilli, where our guide Nahide grew up.  Happily there were no other tourists around, and this weekly market is where farmers from the surrounding countryside come to sell their produce.  Most of it takes place under a vast canopied structure with four rows of sellers, and buyers wandering down the passages between.  I had anticipated that it would be tricky to get the sorts of shots I enjoyed captureing in Cambodia and Burma, as this is an overwhelmingly Moslem country, but almost everyone was happy to be photographed.  Indeed at one point I seemed to be beseiged by people keen to either have their own photo done, or to volunteer their friends....
One of the most intriguing experiences was when suddenly we heard a voice from a loudspeaker, and at once everyone stopped what they were doing, became silent, and held their hands palms up in a gesture of supplication.  We found out later that every market day prayers are said by the imam on the subject of giving thanks for produce, to remind everyone to deal fairly in selling and buying, not to cheat, and to be grateful for the bounty of the land etc.  I was given figs by two different ladies, and the baker gave me a pastry which looks like a round danish, but has tahina in it, and is remarkably tasty!

After meeting Nahide's brother who had come to meet her, we drove on to Miletus. This is now principally the theatre remaining in good condition and otherwise many signs of ancient debris:  columns, the capitals decorated, carved stones etc.  It is situated near the River Maeander, which gives rise to our word to meander - and the deposits of silt both enriched the land and eventually by Ottoman times the harbour was rendered useless and the city abandoned.  It was extremely powerful at one time, around the 6th century BC, after which the Persians destroyed it utterly - only to be beaten back by the Greeks.  Alexander the Great came on the scene and it regained strength during Roman times, and became a Christian centre of significance.   Thales the philosopher came from Miletus!

 And lest anyone think this is lightweight tourism, can I remind you that by 11am it's HOT, and we've been up since about 6am.  So on we go to grab some lunch at a roadside diner, not that it bears any resemblance to such a thing in the UK.   This was a family affair in the converted garage, with someone sitting making fresh dough for pancakes and bread, and everyone else involved in preparing vegetables and kebabs and serving up.  Nahide always insists that we try something that is good, from the area - we have had various cheeses, yoghorts, diverse bread products, special sauces, desserts, etc. My favourite thing that I am eating almost daily is aubergine on the grill, chopped salads and yoghort. Hugely fresh foods, sprung straight from the ground into the kitchen without interference from middlemen.
Another drive now to Didyma where a plan was hatched to create a wonder of the world, namely a vast temple to Apollo.  He was the god of prophecy, and as such, the site was much visited by those wanted a hint of the future.  Next to Delphi this was the foremost oracle of the Hellenic world.
Like many sites it suffered destruction, followed by rebuilding, according to who was fighting, and who was ruling.  Because the building was dependent on sponsorship when donations slowed, the building stopped.  It was started about 600BC and the idea was that this would be the largest Temple existing at the time.  It was never finished, of course....
There are amazing details, friezes, carved patterns, symbols such as the bee and sting (the abdomen of the bee looking like an egg)...bayleaves, artichoke leaves, etc.   There's also an association, ladies, with Artemis, who is much honoured hereabouts.

After all this it was on to Kusadasi by the sea, near to Ephesus.  That's tomorrow.