Well, the Fates had it in their minds to toy with me today.
I awoke early, 6.15am, which would have been great if there was any good light, but no! It was drizzling and grey, flat. I went back to bed and slept in until 10am.
By the time I left the hotel, I had a plan to go to Kadikoy to what was meant to be a good local market, very large, only on Tuesdays.
I walked just a few minutes to catch a ferry from the Galata side, so far - so good...Sadly the drizzle was steadily falling, and the light was that awful, bright, flat grey that blows out anything, by tricking the poor old sensor into thinking it's looking at something super bright, and it then underexposes everything else. Nightmare. Anyway, it was pleasant to be on the ferry, watching the clouds drifting over the city, obscuring farther off areas, and putting some dampness into the air, so that I was glad of my 'buff' and raincoat hood.
At Kadikoy I set off towards the market, but after a while thought I should check my direction. Twice I was sent to a supermarket ('big market') which I thought was odd, but eventually found an english speaker who explained, regretfully, that the Tuesday Kadikoy market was no longer in Kadikoy, but had been moved about 3 miles away to another suburb.
Well, I really couldn't be bothered...
So I stuck around the area, exploring little lanes with various other, more modest market stalls, little shops, cafes, etc etc.
There were a few tourists, mostly French or Scandinavian, but it was really just a neighbourhood suburb. I stopped at Lokanta Ciya for lunch. This place has a visionary chef who collects ancient recipes especially from Anatolia, and focusses on poor people's food - on the basis that need drives creativity. I had a little pie which was filo dough crust in a pot, and you cut it open to find rice with raisins, almonds, nuts and chicken pieces. That was delicious!
Eventually I became wet and fed up, so I beat a retreat and got the ferry back to the European side. Shame, since if it was dry I would have done some more things, but there didn't seem any point in something like a nostalgia tram ride when you can't see much. Viewpoints similarly not very appealing.
So I'm back in my quarters, it's 5pm, and I'm hoping weather will improve tomorrow.




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