Final day of my Turkey trip - sun is shining!!

At least when I draw back the curtains the sky is dotted with some pretty, scudding, innocent white clouds in an essentially blue background.  I felt instantly more enthused about this final day.
I started with walking over the Galata bridge to the old city side of the European section of Istanbul and meandered my way via Gulhane Park to the Archaeological Museums, which are situation just near to the Tophane Palace.  En route a poster for a photography exhibit caught my eye, and I ventured in to a building in what seemed to be an abandoned yard.
I found about 12 enlarged photos around a space empty but for sand (very annoying to walk on) with a few candle holders under each one with live candles guttering in the draught.
I wasn't impressed with the 'works' which seemed to be somewhat unfocussed and deliberately blurred pictures of either camels or horses with the occasional tree or bush.
Leaving I discovered that the photographer was a prince from one of the Emirates.  I'd better bite  my tongue.
Anyway, the Archaeological museums were a good antedote to that experience, being set up by the artist whose work I encountered at the Pera museum the other day, Osman Hamdi Bey.  A good part is under renovation but there's still a great deal to see.  The biggest plus is that everyone overlooks this in favour of rushing to the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.  This museum is quieter by far, away from the crowds, ignored by the Cruise ship day trippers, and consequently, far more pleasant.  It's actually 3 buildings and a garden, with a pleasant cafe under the trees.  First place is focussed on finds from the Ancient Orient, including processional panels from the entry to Babylon, the fabled Ishtar Gate.

Then there's a very pretty building, the tiled Pavilion, full of ceramic finds and - yes, you guessed it - tiles!

Finally, the more traditional selection which is about Istanbul through the ages, plus some information on the countries bordering - syria, palestine/israel, lebanon etc.

One interesting thing is to discover that the name Bosphorus means exactly the same thing as Oxford....

Time to move on to another less visited site - the Hagia Irene, a byzantine 4th century church no longer in use as a church.  Interesting because unlike almost every other building after the Ottomans took power, it was not converted into a mosque.  It is therefore pretty much as it was in shape and decoration - and being an early example, quite simple in style.

After wandering down among the smaller streets near the Blue mosque, deciding again the queue to enter the latter, and having a lunch of bread, soup and aubergine, I crossed the Hippodrome area to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic art.

The museums haven't quite got the hang of salesmanship, which is quite sweet in its way, showing that commercialism hasn't topped their motivational list.  The shop here is tucked down in a corner, and could really be making a fortune if they stocked more things, and there are plenty of appropriate goods of quality they could sell.  

Anyway, all to the good, since I bought nothing and was ready to stretch my legs in the direction of the Egyptian Bazaar to return to the shop which Nahide had introduced us to on Friday last, and where I had been sorely tempted by a cashmere shawl.   I knew that if I entered the shop, I would probably buy, so it was really a decision made by the act of going.  It was the nicest quality thing I had seen anywhere in the country in the cashmere line, and made much of the other things look nasty by comparison - a shame, actually, since many are very pretty.  I don't mind paying a fair price.  The thing that upsets me and anyone else buying goods, is to be charged as if something is higher quality than it is - eg, saying it's wool or silk when it's just polyester or viscose.

I chatted quite a while with Nelly, about Turkey, her family, etc, over some apple tea which was procured by her standing in the doorway of the shop and shouting for it.  As is the way here, shortly afterwards a man appeared with a little tray bearing our drinks.  The tray has supports ending in a single point above so that it can be held with one hand.  I have never seen a spillage or breakage, and this system is used in all the markets.  

Shortly afterwards I emerged, poorer, with TWO shawls, one green cashmere with handstitched patterning, and one in silk blues.  Lovely stuff. 

Nelly and one of the Syrian owners of Maison d'Alep in the shop

And so, I walked back to Galata over the bridge.    Quite a satisfying and full day to finish with.  Now all I had to do was to pack it away.  

Hmm.  Somehow that was going to be interesting given that I had bought a few things to go in a case that was fairly snuggly packed to start with....

I decided to fill my backpack with all my clothes and put that in the hold....

Home tomorrow.